Bringing cookbooks to Mexico
Continuing on the food theme of the last post, it occurred to me that some kinds of cookbooks are more useful than others here in Old Mexico. If you’re in the pre-relocation sorting stage, and you’ve got the wherewithal, as with all books, I say bring them all! If you’re trying to weed out an overgrown collection, however, here are some points to keep in mind.
Any cookbook that relies heavily on exotic ingredients or equipment is likely to be of little use in Mexico (unless you live in a very metropolitan area). I parted reluctantly with a Hunan cookbook before leaving and have had no reason to regret it — on the contrary, having it around now would only make me pine for its unobtainable pleasures.
Old-fashioned, basic cookbooks have proved the most useful in my experience. The more general reference material they contain the better. As I’ve mentioned before, cooking in most parts of Mexico involves starting with what you’ve got as opposed to dreaming up a menu and then assembling it. I got rid of my 1968 edition of the Larousse Gastronomique because it was so large and heavy, and regretted it so much I actually found another copy (in worse condition) on Amazon and replaced it. I also regret getting rid of my old Joy of Cooking, although I won’t be replacing that one. I don’t remember ever actually making a recipe from the Joy of Cooking, but all those tables about cooking times and how long stuff will keep in the freezer can really come in handy at times.
I definitely recommend bringing anything you’ve loved and used for years (for me, all my Italian and Spanish cookbooks), and also anything of literary interest (e.g. Elizabeth David, M.F.K. Fisher, Anthony Bourdain, etc.).
I brought a couple of Mexican cookbooks, which turned out to be a good idea, despite my worry about carrying coals to Newcastle. I’m sorry now I got rid of my Diana Kennedy collection; her formidable scholarship would be doubly interesting now we’re living here, in spite of her uber-control-freak recipe format which always annoyed me so.
The one cookbook we’ve acquired since living here (besides the Larousse replacement) is a Cuban one, bought with an eye to wresting more variety out of the limited ingredients available in rural Sonora, and it has worked out very well.
As with all these decisions, when in doubt, keep it and bring it along! If it’s a book you’re fond of, it will still be good for entertainment or nostalgia, even if you never make another recipe from it again.